Thursday, February 27, 2014

Day 4 Swoon Eloise Wallet Sewalong: Attaching Trifold Compartment andCompleting Main Compartment Pleats

Next to last day ladies!
Today we are attaching the trifold compartment to the main compartment and completing the main compartment lining.

Grab your two compartments.  With the main compartment folded, but unzipped, center the trifold compartment.  If you have a preference on which side the trifold compartment is attached to, take care to note which way the zipper is going.

Carefully open both compartments. Pin in place, if you wish.  Top stitch through both compartments along the green 'U', careful to not sew through both sides of your main compartment. 

Set that aside and lets make more pleats!
If you need a reminder, here is the video again.
 Making Pleats Video

We are doing the same thing as with the trifold, but different measurements.
Mark 2.5" then 4.5".

Fold them wrong sides together along your marks.

Top stitch each pleat like before, making sure to only sew through 2 layers.
Pull the 4.5" crease 1/2" above the 2.5" crease.  Bring up the tail to be 1" above the highest pleat.  
Your pleat panel should be 4x18"
Baste down each 4" side to hold the pleats in place.
Cut the pleats in half, making two 4"x9" pleated panels.  

Press each of the panels in half, matching 4" ends.  Make a crease.  Stitch in the center of your pleats to separate your credit card slots.

Pin one pleat panel to a main compartment baking, right sides together.  
Sew along long edges at 1/2" SA

Trim seam allowances and turn right side out.

Press well.

Top stitch along top seam only.  Repeat backing instructions for other pleat panel.

Last part of the day:  attaching the pleats to the main compartment.
Grab your main compartment pattern piece and lay it on the wrong side of your main
compartment lining piece.  On the bottom of the pattern piece, on each side, there are short marks.  Cut your pattern piece along those marks.  Now transfer that to your fabric piece.  Remember, the pattern piece is on the fold, so flip the pattern piece over and repeat for other side of fabric piece.  You will have 4 slits total-two on the right, two on the left. See the 4th photo down for complete visual.

Fold that tiny flap wrong sides together.

Top stitch only on that tiny flap area.

Take one pleat panel, lay it right side up on your main compartment lining piece.
Pleating backing will match up with right side of lining, as below.

The pleat panel, will match up with the notch in the middle.  Pin in place.

Base down a short side.

Turn your work, change your stitch back to normal, and sew down the bottom until you reach the end.

Turn your work again and baste up the short end.

Flip your piece over and snip the edges of the pleats to match the curve of the lining.
Repeat for other side of the main compartment lining.

The lining is complete.  Tomorrow is the last day for the sewalong!