Friday, June 27, 2014

Stella Sewalong Day 5: Piping and Handles

The answer is YES, you need piping on your Stella Weekender.
Don't argue with facts.
Dig in the back of the closet and pull out the big girl panties.
Put them on and let's get piping.

Grab your exterior side pocket pieces.
Pin piping to the top of one of the pocket pieces, matching raw edges.
Using your zipper foot, sew together as close to the cording as possible.

Take your other exterior pocket piece and lay it on top of the other, right sides together.  Pin the tops.

 Following the stitching you made from sewing the piping on, stitch the two pockets together along the top only.

Open the pocket pieces and place them wrong sides together.  Press well. 

Top stitch 1/8" away from piping.

 Take the exterior main panel without the zipper.  Line up the pocket with the bottom of the main panel. Base the pocket on the main panel around the side/bottom/side.

Fold the panel in half, matching sides.  Hand press a center crease.

Stitch along the crease, creating two pockets.

Start sewing from the bottom of the panel and end at the top of the pocket piece.
Sewing bottom to top helps prevent potential bunching that could happen from sewing top to bottom.

What your second main panel will look like.

Lets add piping to everything else.
Take your exterior bottom piece.  Attach piping to the two short sides of the piece.
Pin piping on, matching raw edges.  Use your zipper foot to sew as close to the cording as possible.

Now lets piping to the main panels.
I learned a stellar piping trick from my pal Erin Austin-Holder (shout out!)
Watch this awesomeness right here!

Start at the bottom/center of your exterior main panel.
Open the end of your piping and cut out 1" of the cording. Fold the bias tape back together.

Pin the piping to the main panel (raw sides matching) around entire panel.
Piping/Bias tape is stretchy.  As you pin, slightly pull on the piping.  This will help reduce the amount of bulk when you sew the piping on.

When you reach the bottom again, feel the first end for where you cording starts (where my finger is)
Cut your second piping end to match where your finger is.

On the first piping end (sans 1" cording), fold the bias tape in 1/2".

Keeping the bias tape folded in, place the other end of your piping in the first, making a sandwich.
(My fav sandwich is toasted peperoni and cheese)

Close it all back up together.  Isn't that beautiful?  Thanks Erin for the radical tip!

Sew the piping on using your zipper foot.  Repeat for the other main panel.
Remember to pin the pocket piece down so it does not accidentally shift and get sewn into the piping. 

Lots of photos on this, but it goes quick!

Take two handle pieces:  One with stabilizer and one without.
Lay on top of each other right sides together and pin, leaving one long side open (my finger).

If your handle ends are the slightly bit different after sewing, it will show when you attach them to your bag.  Let's make sure they look good.
You will sew with a 1/2" seam allowance, so I like to draw that on my handle piece.
If you used stabilizer, this will be easier-you just sew around your Peltex.
You don't have to draw around the whole thing, just the ends.
Super careful to make sure your ends look nice.
(PS-I didn't use stabilizer on my handles. Yours will look different.)

Carefully follow your seam allowance marks. Trim SAs.

Turn your handle right side out.

 Press well.  Turn the long raw ends inside the handle by 1/2"

To do this, I like to do one side at a time.  Tuck in and press as you travel down the handle piece.

Flip the handle over and repeat for the other side.  Press again.

Top stitch around entire handle.
Repeat for other handle

We are going to skip around for a moment.
Set aside your two handle pieces and take the long strap piece.
Fold the strap in half hot dog style.  Press.

Open the strap and press each long edge towards the middle crease you just made.
Press well.

Using the original center crease, fold your strap in half again, hiding all those long raw edges.

Top stitch down each long end.

Grab the swivel snaps.  Loop one side of the strap through the snap and fold over 1".

Zig zag along the raw edge to secure.
Repeat for the other side of the strap and the second swivel snap.
Double check that you are looping and folding the strap in the same direction as the first one you did!

Have you tried the peppermint patty coffee creamer?  I'm drinking that right now. omgee!
Must. get. IV.

 Go back to those handles. Get one and one main panel.
Position one handle end 2.5" from the top...

...and 3" from the side.
Ignore my 2.5" measurement.  That's what happens when I don't update the pattern on my ipad.

Do the same for the other handle end.  Careful to not twist your handle.

Stitch around the end and then make a X in the middle for extra security.
Repeat for other handle and main panel.

 Set the main panels aside and find the strap connectors.
You can do this step at the same time as making your strap.
I did them later so I wouldn't have to change my thread color more than necessary.  Laziness?
No, that's being efficient.
Wrong side up.

Fold in half hamburger style. Press

 Open it up and fold each short side towards center crease. Press again.

Fold in half again on original center crease.  Raw edges are hidden in the center.
Top stitch down each long end.
Finished strap connector piece is 1.5" x 3"

Slip your D-ring on.
Repeat for other strap connector.

This is a great stopping point for today.  See you tomorrow!