Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Stella Sewalong Day 3: Exterior pocket

Day 3!

Grab the main panel piece WITHOUT the fleece.
Measure down 3.5" from the top.  Draw a line across the right side of the fabric.

Flip the piece over.  Fuse the zip interfacing strip along the line but on the wrong side of the fabric.

Flip it back over to the right side.  Cut along your line.
Don't freak out on me!

Your piece is now decapitated. Set both aside.

Take the unfused fleece main panel.
Mark a 2" x 15" rectangle 2.5" from the top.
Fold the main panel in half.  Measure down 2.5" from the top.
Draw a horizontal line from the fold 7.5" line shown.

Measure down 2" from the top first line.
Draw a second line 7.5" from the fold.
Now you have two lines.  One line at 2.5" from the top and
a second line 4.5" from the top.

Draw a vertical line to connect the two lines.
Cut out that rectangle.
Set fleece aside.

Let's get to sewing now.
You need your 14" zipper and both zip end pieces.

We want to fold the straight end of the zip end pieces (not the sides that are diagonal)

Now that you found the straight side, fold 1/2" under to wrong side.
Repeat for other zip end.

Lay out your zipper and the zip ends.
One zip end should be even with the top of the zipper (where the pull is)
*Very important! The zip end diagonal should be the widest at the bottom of the piece.
Make sure you have your zip ends place correctly!
The second zip end needs to be placed 13" from the other zip end.

Top Stitch along end zipper end tab, attaching it to the zipper.  Repeat for other zip end.

Find the main panel that you cut in two pieces.  

Fold and press the cut edges (where my fingers are) under 1/4".

Take you zipper and the top part of your main panel.  Align the main panel 1/4" away from the zipper teeth.  Pin well.

Top Stitch the panel to the zipper.

After sewing.

Do the same with the bottom half of the main panel. Pin and top stitch 1/4" away from zipper teeth.

All sewn together.

Now we will add the pocket to the zipper.
Fold down the top portion of the main panel so right sides are together.

Right side of pocket piece against the wrong side of the zipper, line up pocket with zipper.
Pin together.  Make sure the top of the main panel is folded out of the way and you are only pinning the pocket piece to the small area where the zipper is.

Because this is such a small work area, I like to sew with the main panel facing up to make sure
I don't sew down into my main panel.

a different view.

Carefully sew the pocket piece to the tiny zipper allowance.  Double check the bottom of the pocket piece is out of the way. 

 What the wrong side will look like after sewing the top of the pocket.

Do the same for the bottom edge of the pocket.
Match the bottom of the pocket to the zipper edge.

Double check that you pocket edges are aligned.

Fold the bottom of the main panel down and out of the way.
Pin the pocket to the zipper.

What the other side looks like.

Stitch in the tiny allowance.

Pocket is on!

Stitch down each open side of the pocket piece. 
Only stitch the pocket, not the main panel!

sides stitched.

Remember that fleece we cut the rectangle out of? 
We will fuse that on now.
 Pull the pocket through the fleece opening and align the fleece to match the main panel.

Fuse the fleece to the main panel.
Set the panel aside.

Tomorrow we are focusing on the cargo pockets!